In the previous post, It’s a Kind of Magic, I mentioned there were significant differences between this shoe and what is known as a Lucas Type 5. The drawing as published by Lucas is not the full picture. He omitted the continuous rand and the insert in the side seams. You can see the details in my post on the LT 5.
The Aungier Street Shoe has a continuous rand, side seam inserts and is made as a turn shoe. This is where any similarity with an LT 5 ends. Principally those differences are:
No latchets: the LT 5 has a latchet stitched at an angle to the top-edge of the back-part. The top-edge of the Aungier Street shoe is not angled in any way and it appears to have had a strengthening cord stitched in place all around the top-edge of the quarters.
Plate 1 Plate 2
Plate 1 shows the straight top-edge and straight side seam, with its insert. In Plates 2 and 3 we can see a remnant of the strengthening cord in situ across the vamp instep and also around the back of the heel. The latchets were used for a lace-tied shoe as opposed to the Aungier Street slip-on style.
No vamp tongue: the LT 5 has a tongue on the instep which varies in size and shape. The Aungier Street shoe is straight across the instep and the strengthening cord seen in Plate 2 is a clear indication that no tongue was part of the design.
Plate 3 Plate 4
Right and left quarters: In Plate 3 we can clearly see the seam at the back of the heel which joins the two quarters. It is stitched with edge/flesh stitches and reinforced with a heel stiffener on the inside. A running stitch secures the top edge of this heel stiffener just below the strengthening cord. The torn triangular section on the right quarter reveals the heel stiffener. Plate 4 shows the rib bone which was also found the the floor of the South West Room but it is not clear if it was beside the shoe or elsewhere in the room.
The South West Room
Plate 5 Plate 6
Plate 5 shows the beam with the carved apotropaic mark which can be read as M or VV. Plate 6 shows the location of the finds in this room
The Lucas Type 5 comparative details
Lucas Type 5 one-piece backpart with a small heel-stiffener at the heel and angled top edges for latchet seams on both wings . A closed stitch was used at these seams.
Plate 8 Plate 9
A Lucas Type 5 latchet and side seam with insert in situ. The angled top-edge and closed seam are clearly visible
Plate 10 Plate 11
Plate 10 shows another example of a Lucas Type 5 one piece backpart with latchets and lacing thong in situ. Again, the angled top-edge and closed seam are visible. Plate 11 shows a child’s size LT 5 with the typical vamp tongue at the instep.
The differences between this type of shoe and the Aungier Street example are clear. The closest parallels for the Aungier Street Shoe are depicted in Derrick’s Images of Ireland from 1587 and among the shoes recovered from the Mary Rose wreck. Such parallels suggest the shoe may already have been quite old when deposited and is possibly of sixteenth century date, which makes its discovery in a late-seventeenth century house all the more intriguing. Equally intriguing is the fact that the Aungier Street Shoe, is the first example of this style of slip-on shoe, which I have come across in an Irish context. To be continued………………